Topping two mountains
September 18, 2010
In just one short week I’ve found myself in a wonderful place, having achieved the summit of two rather substantial mountains, one figurative and one literal. Let me tell you – it’s a WONDERFUL feeling!
The first mountain, rather small and of the figurative sort, was the 29 days of fasting during Ramadan 1431. Although I fasted for the entire month of Ramadan last year (30 days rather than 29, I believe), I wasn’t quite sure if I’d try to tackle the whole four weeks again this time around. I remembered how miserable my body felt and, knowing about the literal mountain so close on my schedule to the end of Ramadan this year, I thought it might be best to take a more relaxed approach to it.
But then, I found the motivation and support I needed when Fauve said she wanted to give it a shot herself. Fasting in solidarity with someone else makes it infinitely easier to stay committed, even through long days and in the face of terrible temptations. This year I also had a better idea of what sorts of foods I should eat to stay feeling decent, and I had a slightly better record of eating with moderation when I could (that is, so long as I wasn’t around other PCV’s – we can’t get together without cooking copious amounts of amazing food).
I’m happy to say that when the small holiday, L’eid Imzzin, came around on Friday September 10th, I felt just about normal physically. I enjoyed a nice lunch with my host family in town, visited a few people briefly, and then made my way to Tiznit to spend the night before undertaking my next big adventure: the literal mountain of Toubkal – the highest mountain in North Africa.
I met Fauve in Marrakesh Saturday and we spent a couple days together before her parents arrived on Monday night. We had a wonderful time in Marrakesh, yet again. After a whirlwind tour of the city center and the souqs for her parents, we moved on to the village of Imlil to spend Tuesday night in the shadows of the mountains we hoped to climb.
Wednesday turned out to be an absolutely beautiful day for a hike. We started out early, dressed lightly for the hot Moroccan sun even though we were moving up and up into cooler reaches. Despite the first day being quite long, at seven solid hours of uphill hiking, it was lovely. I don’t remember when I last slept so well (though I imagine the preemptive Tylenol PM probably helped my sleep, in addition to being completely exhausted).
Thursday we set out before the sun was up, attempting to find the trail up from the refuge towards the summit with headlamps. I took a nice view of Orion, thoughtfully pointed out to me by Fauve’s parents before we started, to be a good omen for the second day of our hike. The day’s goals were the summit of Toubkal, then the trek all the way back down to Imlil.
There wasn’t a single person in our group who didn’t face a few rough moments on the way up our second day. When it takes three and a half hours of small steps up quite steep, rocky slopes to finish off a total of ten and a half hours of trekking from the bottom to the top, there are plenty of chances for doubts and miserable thoughts. The first thirty minutes of the second morning had me seriously doubting whether I could make it – I simply couldn’t catch my breath…
But being in the company I was in, with Fauve and her parents, there was no question of having to make it all the way – not only did I want to, but I had to. It didn’t take too long, however, for me to start feeling decent with the exercise and to start focusing on happier thoughts. I couldn’t help but feel a wonderful elation at the fact that I was not only with Fauve, and her parents, but actually finally climbing Mount Toubkal with them. This hike was something I had been waiting for for what felt like a very long time.
I took the feeling and the thoughts that came with it, and ran with them. I watched Fauve’s feet taking their small steps in front of mine, focusing on being with her and her parents, and let my mind wander in all sorts of happy places while my body moved slowly on up the steep slopes. After a while Suzan asked me a question or two about Walt Disney and my time at Disney World, and with that I was off for probably a good twenty minutes spouting all sorts of random facts and memories to whoever wanted to tune-in. It felt like at least half an hour of hiking passed under my boots without me even noticing. I felt like I was walking on clouds.
Eventually Fauve’s father suggested a short snack break, commenting on how I must feel great to be doing all that talking on the trail. Turns out that that point in the trek was a bit rough for the others, but I told myself I should hang on tight to what I had going. The snacks (Power Bars, Snickers, trail mix) and water and Gatorade helped everyone out, though, and the next bit was a little better for us all. At this point we started to split up into two groups, the ‘rents going on a little ahead at a faster pace, and me happily joining Fauve in her easier pace. Slowly but surely, as they say! That’s the only way to do it.
Fauve and I had a great hike the rest of the way to the top. It certainly wasn’t easy! But as we got some energy back we had some good chats and simply enjoyed each other’s company. Here we were, tackling this mountain together, doing something we’d been looking forward to for quite a while. It was wonderful. I’m happy to say that we had some solid smiles on our faces in spite of the cold, rain, hail, and the all-around difficulty of the hike.
Eventually, finally, in disbelief, we made it to the top! Fauve and I walked up the last slope together, enjoying the sensation of success after so many long hours of hard work…
We didn’t spend long at the summit because of the weather – snow flurries mixed with hail, blistering wind, and clouds blocking any chance at glimpsing the bound-t0-be-amazing views from the top of the mountain. Being the tallest mountain in North Africa at 4,167 meters (2.58 miles /13,674 feet above sea level), Toubkal offers great views of all the surrounding regions. I’d been hoping to see some of the Sahara, but no luck this time around. (And to be honest, I don’t know if I’ll ever make the trip back up! Maybe in 20 years….)
Regardless, it was a wonderful feeling to be at the top! Definitely surreal to have finally, finally made it. We snagged a few pictures and then bolted for the path back down to the refuge. Again split into our pairs and moving at different speeds, Fauve and I chatted happily as we struggled against the wind and rain to make it safely down the steep upper slopes of rock.
It was really, truly, quite an experience. I’m so thankful to have accomplished such a great feat with Fauve and with her parents. Without a doubt, I couldn’t have done it without her. I certainly couldn’t have done it and still kept my smile as I did throughout most of the hike. The same should be said for my figurative mountain of Ramadan – I know I wouldn’t have been so successful in fasting if it wasn’t for Fauve and her support, as well.
To do these things together means so much! And I’m already looking forward to our next adventure together. On the other side of the spectrum, we’ll soon be on a quest for pure relaxation on a week-long trip to France. I think the most vigorous goal on that visit will be nothing more than trying to eat as much good cheese and bread as possible. I can’t wait!
Standing out front of our nice hotel in Imlil before taking off on the trail.
Wednesday was a beautiful day for a hike!
The surrounding mountains sure made for picturesque views and nice pictures.
Fauve, her dad, and me on a bridge over the mountain stream near the village of Sidi Chamarouch, a couple hours up from Imlil.
One of the many views from the first day of hiking, from Imlil to the refuge.
A view of the much starker scenery from the second day of hiking, getting closer to the summit.
Fauve pointing out the summit just when we looked up and noticed it in our view. It's marked by a large metal pyramid that's directly out from her fingertip.
Getting so close! What an eerie place, rock cairns surrounding the summit with driving snow flurries and overwhelming cloud cover.
Crossing the last few meters, together!
Celebrating our success at the very top of Mount Toubkal!
Fauve and me enjoying the great sensation of accomplishment, surrounded by beautiful mountains.
